You know the places you long to explore, perhaps fall utterly in love with, without ever having stepped foot there? Cinque Terre was that for me. I spent years admiring overly edited pictures on my socials trying not to set expectations too high. Visualising the bluest waters, the perfect weather, bright colours, the viewpoints and romantic settings. I envisioned a destination so magnificent that you find a piece of your heart there!
Fernweh: a deep longing to be somewhere you’ve never been
I was not disappointed! And for this reason, I am delighted to take you along the journey and will do my best to share this experience in a way that paints a realistic picture of this iconic destination. Hugging the coast of the Italian Riviera is Cinque Terre – a string of five colourful villages called Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. My husband and I went on a 5 day trip to Cinque Terre in Oct 2023. Even though it was out of season, it was vibrant, busy and the weather was hot but very pleasant.
This is a tourist’s guide to Cinque Terre (for the non-hikers!)
Key Tips
- Book a trip out of season
- Get the 3 day train pass which will allow you to commute between the villages
- Spend a few hours in La Spezia and Porto Venere
- Carry spare cash for the public toilets
- 5 days is perfect amount of time to enjoy a day at each village
- Research walking routes beforehand and take water. It is hot!
- Make sure to try the local wine and pesto. It’s what the area is known for.
- Don’t be tempted to miss Corniglia. It was underrated.
- Choose one location to base yourself
Day 1: Pisa & Riomaggiore
We landed in Pisa bright and early to make the most of our day, taking into account the time needed to commute to Cinque Terre. I intentionally chose Pisa so that we could get our photo outside the Leaning Tower of Pisa (slightly underwhelming but has to be done); however, an alternate route could be taken via Milan or Florence which are a similar distance away. We did a brisk walk through the city centre to the touristy area, admired the architecture from the outside, got the essential shot and browsed a few curio shops before heading to La Spezia, where we based ourselves for the duration of our trip.
The commute included:
- Pisa Airport to Central Station = 5 minute shuttle
- Central Station to Leaning Tower of Pisa = 30 minute walk
- Leaning Tower of Pisa to Central Station = 15 minute walk
- Central Station to La Spezia = 50 minute train
ⓘ Allocate at least 2 hours to explore Pisa
On arrival, we immediately checked into our AirBnb, which was located 500m from the La Spezia train station – the location was perfect. La Spezia is situated in a way that offers an easy commute to the 5 villages (via train) but it’s less touristy, less crowded and it’s packed with shops, restaurants and a promenade by the port which is gorgeous for a stroll. I prefer this kind of location to exit the crowds after a busy day, but for those who want to experience the buzz 24/7, I’d suggest staying in Monterosso or Vernazza.
The best way to end the day is to chase a sunset, so that evening we took the train to the first village called Riomaggiore. It is the prettiest location to watch a sunset and wow! It was exceptional. We sat on the rocks admiring the colourful houses and watching people swim and canoe, while sipping on wine and devouring focaccia. The vibe was electric, which created the perfect start to the holiday – relaxing, serene and a solid reminder that dreams come true.
ⓘ By train it takes between 5-10 min to commute to each village. The trains are frequent and the longest we waited was about 20 min
Day 2: Vernazza & Manarola
We were warned about crowds, so we set off early to visit the 4th village, called Vernazza. Arguably this is the most popular as it boasts the picturesque landscape and fishing port. It has beautiful scenic walking/hiking routes which overlook the village and ocean, plenty of restaurants and a small beach to enjoy if the weather permits.
I prioritised Vernazza early in the trip to see if the hype was worth it and give us time to come back if we wanted to. (Spoiler: we did return for a sunset cruise later in the trip). The 2 minute walk from the train to the sea is lined with curio shops and cafes. We stumbled across our favourite focaccia shop called Batti Batti. It is tiny, easy to miss but impossible to forget. The sweet taste of vegetables, garlic and bread … needless to say, we went back for more.
ⓘ Only one toilet at Vernazza station with a lengthy 40 min wait
We spent 3 hours at Vernazza, sitting by the fishing boats admiring the view and meandered through the small walkways and houses to the top of the hill, which is where you get the best pictures of the village. The walk is relatively easy, approximately 20 min and can be done in open shoes.
Note: You can continue on this route to hike between the villages but that wasn’t the holiday we were after this time around.
Although this village was cute and offered views second to none, this was our least favourite of all of them. Perhaps due to all the overly edited photos I’d seen prior to our visit or that many of the restaurants had no vegetarian options, or that my last memory was desperately trying to get into a toilet. Maybe a mix of all three.
After Vernazza, we went to Manarola to experience the much anticipated Pesto Making Class at Nessun Dorma. I planned this well ahead of time (essential as it books out weeks in advance) and I struggle to put this experience into words. It was spectacular and a moment in time I will remember forever – the food, wine, views and entrepreneurial story. It’s simply a must!
After pesto making, we spent the rest of the afternoon swimming in the sea, which is about 100m from the restaurant, and sun tanned – the ultimate relaxation. The water was refreshing and clear, but not easy to swim in as it was choppy and the ground leading to the sea was quite slippery.
ⓘ After this holiday we purchased a microfibre towel which is light to carry and perfect for a spontaneous swim.
After another spectacular and romantic sunset, a long day in the sunshine (and probably a bit too much wine), we decided to go for dinner closer to our accommodation. I had a bit of trouble finding restaurants that would cater for vegetarians but found a gem called Bar Remo that did a takeaway arrabbiata pasta, so my day ended on a high.
Day 3: Monterosso & Riomaggiore
Nothing better than a beach day! We planned this village around the weather and it landed mid-trip, which was ideal. Monterosso is the largest of the five villages and seemingly the odd one out as it is more developed than the others, but not to be missed. It is well known for its long sandy beaches and iconic orange and green umbrellas. We arrived around 09.30 thinking that we would struggle to secure a good spot but it didn’t start filling up until about 11:00 (this all depends on the day and the season, I suppose?).
Here we received helpful advice from locals – as you walk out of the station, people tend to head straight onto a long sandy beach called Spiaggia Fegina. However, if you walk approximately 10 minutes to the right, there is a small popular beach with quite a unique attraction called Spiaggia Il Gigante. The Il Gigante is a huge concrete statue built on the cliff in 1910, which towers over the beach in a rather odd but charming way. The warm crystal clear water really makes this even more impressive. There are private areas where you can rent umbrellas and loungers if you wish.
If you want a good spot for lunch in Monterosso, try La Terrazza Cigolini. It has panoramic views across the beach and they serve a variety of dishes – pasta, burrata, bruschetta and importantly, a decent Aperol. Nothing screams Italy more than a gelato, so before leaving Monterosso, I’d highly recommend scooping up a pistachio ice cream from Gelateria La Scogliera. It was delicious and the best one I tasted on this trip! While we spent our time in the New Town of Monterosso where the beaches, cafes and restaurants are situated, there is an Old Town where you can explore the exquisite narrow alleyways and houses if you have time.
From the sunshine to the sunset – we hopped on the train to Riomaggiore (sadly for the last time) to end the day with a little wine and the largest pizza slice. We had an hour to browse the handful of shops and nightlife, which was more than enough time as it really is a quaint village with the harbour front and centre. Feeling sun-kissed, we had an early night to be ready for another day of exploring.
Day 4: La Spezia, Corniglia & Vernazza
It was a slow start to the morning as this was going to be another busy day, so we opted for an early morning walk to the port in La Spezia. I’d seen a photo of the promenade with palm trees (universal sign of relaxation) so a visit to this spot was in order. I didn’t hold my hopes up for La Spezia as I booked it based on convenience rather than reviews, but it really was beautiful. Full of restaurants, coffee shops and retail stores. One regret I have is that we didn’t walk the streets of La Spezia near the Port early enough in the trip, because I would’ve liked to spend more time there.
ⓘ Milk alternatives (i.e oat milk) is hard to come across but we found this coffee shop called Bio Lino in La Spezia
If I am truthful, I was slightly apprehensive about day four as I’d not heard many good things about Corniglia. It is the smallest and most difficult to access village. Well well… a welcome surprise, as on reflection, it was one of my favourite days.
Being the 3rd village, Corniglia is right in the heart of Cinque Terre. This ancient village is situated on the top of the hill, surrounded by spectacular views of the ocean and the other villages,and the incredible vineyards. Known for the popular Blue Path hiking route which connects Corniglia and Vernazza. It’s a destination fit for a mindful nature lover. Despite being small and arguably the quietest, it is easy to get lost in the narrow streets between the little curio shops and local cafes. Being on a cliff, access to the beach requires a brief walk down steep stairs.
The must-sees included:
- Viewpoints of the ocean and the other villages
- The main square called Piazza Taragio with restaurants, cafes and benches to rest on and take a moment to enjoy the moment
- A walk (even part way) to the beach to admire the unique views from high up
ⓘ From the train station, you can either climb the 382 stairs or catch a shuttle bus (approx 10 min). There is a wait for the shuttle bus as it can only accommodate +/- 20 people at any one time.
Our final activity for the day was a sunset boat trip from Vernazza. We booked with Lorenzo from Cinque Terre Fantasea and I can’t recommend him enough. Experiencing sunsets from the sea with nothing but the waves to distract you, brings a whole new level of joy. We set off from the Vernazza pier and for two hours, we got to admire Cinque Terre from the sea, which was outstanding. Lorenzo shared the history and facts about each village which was really interesting, especially coming from a local. Included in the boat trip was drinks and focaccia to make the experience even more enjoyable. The day we went the sea was quite rough, so if you are queasy, make sure to check the weather conditions.
Day 5: Porto Venere
Before we started the journey to the airport, we chose to spend our last day in Porto Venere, which is a 1 hour bus drive from La Spezia. The bus tickets were €10 each. This is considered to be the 6th village and it certainly feels like it deserves the right to be part of the mix. We spent 3 hours walking around the cathedral and the single street with shops and cafes; took a stroll along the beach and admired the views of the caves and castle. I just couldn’t leave Italy without a gelato. If you are ever in Porto Venere, try Al Gabbiano. They have a variety of gelato options. And the restaurant is positioned on the main strip by the colourful houses, tables overlooking the boats and sea to create a really relaxing atmosphere.
ⓘ Bus tickets can be purchased from most tobacco stores. Train tickets can be purchased from the train station.
Transport
- Day one – single train ticket to visit Riomaggiore (€14,80 each for single trip)
- Day two/three/four – 3 day pass which entitled us to unlimited trips from La Spezia to the villages and back. (€32.50 each for a 3 day pass)
- Day five – bus to Porto Venere (€10 each) and train back to Pisa
To conclude, Cinque Terre is breathtakingly beautiful. From the wine, pesto, focaccia and sunsets… it is everything and more than what I expected, and I hope you experience the same joy from it on your trip.